so i can’t come to byron and not take surf lessons.
why i have never done this before, i don’t know. but the moment i roped the board to my ankle and jumped my first wave, i was hooked. i learned how to paddle, mount my board and stand up. once i got over the excitement of surviving a wave i soon found myself standing up and catching a wave (albeit a very small one). my instructor was great, teaching me the nipple tuck – keep your hands positioned under your nipples and you’ll always have your arms in position, ready to get up. for three hours i got to play in the water with my board – free reign of the ocean. as the sun set and my muscles screamed in pain, i paddled to shore, dismounted my board and looked back to see more experienced surfers ride high and coast the water’s edge with ease. of course, i couldn’t master the sport in an afternoon or develop that much skill for that matter. but like the rest my journey thus far – in all my travels to get here – i was able to get up, stand on my own two feet. and it was the rush of the open water, of conquering one of nature’s biggest challenges, has definitely left me wanting to come back for more.